Discover Brazilian aquamarine, its unique characteristics, why Brazil is the main source of this gemstone, and how to choose 18k gold jewelry with aquamarine.

Among the most sophisticated and sought-after gemstones in the world, Brazilian aquamarine occupies a special place. Its soft blue hue, reminiscent of the crystal-clear waters of the sea, has enchanted civilizations for centuries and, today, it is one of the most valued gems on the international market.

What few people know is that Brazil is the world's leading source of gem-quality aquamarine. It is on Brazilian soil that the most prized crystals for jewelers, museums, and collectors around the globe are found. Examples include the Dom Pedro aquamarine, discovered in Minas Gerais, which is the largest carved aquamarine in the world and is on display at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington, and the Martha Rocha aquamarine, one of the largest aquamarine specimens ever found, also discovered in the same state, which was named in honor of the Miss Brazil elected in 1954.

Queen Elizabeth II was even presented with some jewelry likely made with aquamarines from the original Martha Rocha collection, since the term "Martha Rocha" today refers both to the historical aquamarine and a commercial variety of dark blue aquamarine, especially those received in 1958 and 1968, as the stone was discovered in 1954 and cut shortly thereafter. And we cannot fail to mention Lady Di's iconic Brazilian aquamarine ring with an emerald cut.

In this comprehensive guide, you will understand the technical characteristics of aquamarine, its evolution in the market, the evaluation criteria, and, most importantly, how this unique gemstone is transformed into 18k gold jewelry at ArtOuro.

What is aquamarine?

Aquamarine is a variety of beryl, which belongs to the same mineral family as emerald. Its characteristic color, which ranges from sky blue to a more intense blue, is a result of the presence of iron (Fe) in its crystalline structure. The name "aquamarine" comes from the Latin aqua marina, which literally means "sea water." The choice of name could not be more fitting: the transparency and brilliance of the gem truly evoke the sensation of observing the sea on a sunny day.

Technical characteristics

  • Composition: Beryl (beryllium aluminum silicate).
  • Hardness: 7,5 to 8 on the Mohs scale (excellent for use in jewelry).
  • Color: Sky blue to dark blue, possibly with greenish tones.
  • Transparency: From transparent to translucent.
  • Brightness: Vitreous.

The evolution of taste: what is the most valued color today?

Interestingly, the aesthetic preference for aquamarine has changed over time. In the 19th century, the most prized gems were those with a sea-green hue, a greenish color that directly evoked the sea on cloudy days.

Nowadays, however, the international market and the most discerning collectors seek aquamarines with a pure sky-blue or intense dark blue color, without greenish hues. The purer and more intense the blue, the higher the gem's value.

This change reflects not only an evolution in aesthetic taste, but also advances in cutting and processing techniques, which allow the natural beauty of the mineral to be enhanced to the fullest.

The phenomenon of dichroism

One fascinating characteristic of aquamarine is dichroism, an optical property that causes the gemstone to appear in different colors depending on the viewing angle.

In aquamarine, this phenomenon manifests itself in the following way:

  • Viewed from one angle, the mineral displays an intense blue color.
  • Viewed from another angle, it may appear colorless or slightly bluish.

This is precisely why the most experienced gem cutters adopt a specific technique: the table facet (the top part of the gem) is positioned parallel to the length of the original crystal. This orientation allows the deepest and most valued color to be exactly in the center of the gem, maximizing its visual beauty.

Why is Brazil the main source of aquamarine?

Brazil is recognized worldwide as the most important source of gem-quality aquamarine, but why? Its privileged geological formation.

Brazil is home to two of the most important pegmatite provinces in the world. Eastern Pegmatitic Province of Brazil (PPOB)The pegmatite region, located primarily in Minas Gerais, is one of the largest and most important pegmatite-producing areas in the world, famous for minerals such as beryl (one of its varieties being aquamarine) and tourmaline, and the Borborema Pegmatitic Province (PPB) (which extends across Northeast Brazil, mainly in Rio Grande do Norte and Paraíba).   

Brazilian aquamarine occurs in two main types of formations:

Alluvial gravel deposits: Known locally as "gravel," these deposits are formed by the accumulation of sediments over time.

Pegmatites: Coarse-grained igneous rocks, rich in rare minerals, where large, pure crystals are formed.

Therefore, Brazil is privileged compared to other countries because it combines magmas exceptionally rich in gem-forming elements, a stable tectonic regime that preserves the crystals, and a tropical climate that naturally concentrates the gems in alluvial deposits. This combination is extremely rare on the planet.

Exceptional crystals

Gem-quality aquamarine can reach up to 1 meter in length with striations along the crystal.

This exceptional quality puts Brazil in a prominent position compared to other important events in the world, such as:

  • Ural Mountains (Russia);
  • China;
  • Afghanistan and Pakistan;
  • India and Sri Lanka;
  • Namibia, Kenya, Nigeria and Zimbabwe (Africa);
  • U.S;
  • Madagascar (known for a dark blue variety).

The Santa Maria Standard: Quality, Not Origin

In the world of gemstones, some names transcend their geographical origin to become synonymous with excellence. This is the case with the term "Santa Maria," used in the gem trade to designate aquamarines with an intense blue color and high saturation, free from greenish or brownish hues.

The origin of this designation dates back to the Santa Maria de Itabira mine, located in Minas Gerais, which between the 1950s and 1990s produced some of the most beautiful Brazilian aquamarine crystals ever found. With the practical depletion of this deposit, the market began to adopt the name "Santa Maria" as a descriptive standard of color and quality, and not as an indication of origin.

It's important to understand: "Santa Maria" is not a gemological variety. It's a commercial name, meaning a market convention used to communicate to the buyer that a particular gemstone meets specific criteria for color and saturation.

Recognizing the need to standardize these criteria, international gemological institutes such as the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) and the Guild Gem Laboratory have established grading systems based on reference master stones. These systems evaluate hue, saturation, and tone, allowing aquamarines from any origin, including Mozambique, Nigeria, Madagascar, and other regions, to receive the Santa Maria grade, provided they meet the rigorous quality parameters defined.

Spectroscopic studies conducted by institutions such as the China University of Geosciences demonstrate that the intense color of these gems is strongly related to the presence of specific elements in their crystalline structure. Aquamarines with the Santa Maria grade of superior quality and above 10 carats can reach significant prices on the international market, reflecting their rarity and the prestige associated with this commercial designation.

Heat treatment: what you need to know

One key aspect that every buyer of aquamarine jewelry needs to know is the heat treatment.

Why is seawater treated?

Almost all aquamarine available on the international market undergoes a heat treatment process to enhance its blue color. This procedure is:

  • Stable: The resulting color is permanent and does not change over time or with normal use.
  • Internationally accepted: Unlike other more invasive treatments, controlled heating is a well-established and accepted practice throughout the gemstone market.
  • Reversible only with extreme heat: The color only changes again if the stone is exposed to very high temperatures, something that does not occur in everyday use of the jewelry.

Necessary care

Although stable, aquamarine requires some simple care:

  • Avoid exposing the jewelry to extreme heat (such as near direct flames).
  • Prefer cleaning with warm water and mild soap.

Avoid frequent use of ultrasonic cleaners, equipment used for deep cleaning jewelry, or harsh chemicals.

How is aquamarine used in jewelry?

Aquamarine is one of the most versatile gemstones for fine jewelry, for three main reasons:

1. Exceptional durability

With a hardness between 7,5 and 8 on the Mohs scale, aquamarine is durable enough for everyday wear in rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. This characteristic makes it ideal for jewelry that women wear continuously, accompanying them on all occasions.

2. Design versatility

Its soft blue color harmonizes perfectly with:

  • White gold: Creates a contemporary and sophisticated look.
  • Yellow gold: Results in a classic and elegant contrast.
  • Rose gold: Creates a romantic and modern combination.

3. Various sizes

Because it occurs in large crystals, aquamarine allows for cuts in various sizes and shapes, from small diamonds to striking gems weighing over 10 carats in rings and pendants.

How to choose your aquamarine jewelry?

To make the right choice, consider:

CriterionWhat to watch out for:
Color:The purer the blue (without a greenish tint), the more valuable the gemstone.
PurezaGems with high transparency and few inclusions are rarer and more valuable.
CutIt should emphasize color and shine, with balanced proportions.
SizeAquamarines weighing more than 5 carats are considered outstanding gemstones.
DesignThe jewelry should harmonize with your personal style and the occasions for which it will be worn.

If after learning about the history and beauty of Brazilian aquamarine you feel that such a jewel deserves to be part of your life, or the life of someone special, know that this dream is closer than you imagine. Discover the collection of... ArtOuro jewelry e Talk to your consultants..

At ArtOuro, we personally select each aquamarine used in our jewelry. We work only with natural Brazilian gemstones of known origin and certified gemological quality. Our 18k gold jewelry combines:

  • Original Brazilian design;
  • Gems selected one by one;
  • Handcrafted finish;
  • 40 years of family tradition.

Discover the beauty of Brazilian aquamarine in a jewel made to last generations. We have prepared a special selection in rings, pendants e earrings Featuring beautiful aquamarines so you can discover the shades of blue of this Brazilian gemstone.

Brazilian aquamarine

At ArtOuro, each aquamarine is personally selected by our gemological team. We work exclusively with natural Brazilian gemstones of known origin, set in 18k gold jewelry that combines original design and over 40 years of family tradition.

FAQ

Is all aquamarine heat-treated?
Almost all aquamarine available on the market undergoes heat treatment to enhance its blue color. It is a stable, safe, and widely accepted process.

How to identify a quality aquamarine?
Look for a supplier with experience. But we suggest some key factors: pure blue color, good transparency, balanced cut, known origin.

Can aquamarine lose its color over time?
No, if exposed to normal conditions of use. However, extremely high temperatures (such as near flames) may alter its color. Therefore, we recommend removing the jewelry before activities involving intense heat.

How do I clean my jewelry with aquamarine?
Warm water, mild soap, and a soft-bristled brush are sufficient. Avoid harsh chemicals and frequent use of ultrasound.

What is the difference between aquamarine and blue topaz?
These are completely different gemstones. Aquamarine is a beryl and is a rarer and more valuable gemstone. Blue topaz, on the other hand, is more common and generally has a more intense color, but lower gemological value.

What is the difference between aquamarine and Santa Maria aquamarine?
This is one of the most common questions, and the answer involves a fundamental concept in the gemstone trade: the difference between mineral variety and trade name. Aquamarine is a specific variety of the mineral beryl. In scientific terms, therefore, any gemstone belonging to the beryl family and exhibiting this color is simply "aquamarine," regardless of where it was extracted. "Santa Maria aquamarine," however, is not a distinct gemological variety, but rather a trade name designating a specific color and quality standard.

Is aquamarine a birthstone?
Yes, aquamarine is the official birthstone for the month of March. This association is recognized by leading gemological institutions such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society.

Is aquamarine rare?
The answer to this question is: it depends on the quality. Aquamarine itself is considered a common gemstone; however, aquamarines of exceptional color are indeed rare and highly valued.

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